WW1 Watches

There is much information on the introduction and development, of the wristwatch, that if recorded at all, is certainly not easily accessed. One finds a little knowledge here, a little reference there; one may glean odd clues and useful snippets from conversations with dealers, watchmakers, collectors, enthusiasts and such. However, the one thing that clearly emerges, from all such undertakings, is that, not much, is generally known, or indeed properly understood, in to-days watch collecting circles. Often, much of the information that is passed on, originates, rather like ‘Chinese whispers’, from hearsay, personnel opinion, and ‘interpretation’, rather than being based on hard, factual or recorded evidence.
An example, of this, is the often quoted-‘first militarily adopted wristwatch’, it is claimed, that these were those made by ‘Girard Peregaux’ for the German navy, at some time, around the mid 1880’s. In actual fact, GP are currently offering a reward, to anyone, who can prove this fact, or show any evidence of such a timepiece’s existence! As Girard Peregaux themselves, do not in fact have any hard record, or an example of this rumored production, themselves!
In 1892 Omega produced, the first known minute repeating wristwatch in the world, in 1900 Paul Ditisheim, produced another, in this same year, Boucheron, made, for the King of Belgium a decorated and be-jeweled wristwatch. In 1901 Goldsmiths & Silversmiths, established retail jewelers included wristwatches in their famed catalogue.1902 saw the establishment of the aegler wristwatch movement factory, these movements later adopted by Hans Wilsdorf, into his Rolex wristwatches.1904 saw the designing of a watch by Cartier, for the early aviator, Santos-Dumont-this classic wristwatch put into production two years later, is still offered to-day, over a hundred years on, as the ‘Santos’. 1905 saw the founding in London of Wilsdorf & Davis later to become Rolex. In this same year the Ditisheim brothers named their wristwatch company ‘Movado’ an Esperanto word meaning ‘always in motion’. And the American mass production watch company Ingersoll bros. set up a factory in England for the assembly of their machine made components . 1906 saw small 6 line minute repeating movements produced by Audemars Piguet for ladies wristwatches. 1907 saw the first American production of wristwatches by the Elgin watch company as well as the introduction to the market of the Waltham 23 jewel Riverside Maximus wristwatch with screwed chatons. 1908 was the year that the name ‘Rolex’ was registered by wilsdorf & davis.1909 saw the introduction and patenting of another horological classic in the form of the ‘deployment clasp’ this again by Cartier,
1910 saw the introduction by Moeris and by Longines of the first wrist chronographs and the first observatory rating of a wristwatch for Rolex , this was a milestone in the advancement and acceptance of the wristwatch as a time keeper of accuracy and reliability.
Early Waltham Riverside Maximus However throughout all this development and advance the pocket watch still ruled supreme as the chosen timekeeper of gentlemen and soldiers alike. Centuries of devoted work and improvement had resulted, in instruments of both mechanical perfection, as well as visual beauty.
The reliability that these pocket and deck watches now provided, enabled the world to be navigated and sailed, with accuracy and safety. How could an instrument so small, and feminine as the wristlet, ever challenge, let alone replace, such tried and proven timekeeper’s, as the pocket watch? And further, why would a gentleman, want to take such a valuable, and fragile timepiece, from the safety of his waistcoat pocket, and hang it on his wrist, to be so exposed, to a world of daily risk and dangers?
The path ahead was still far from clear as was clearly illustrated by the tabling of a question in parliament, as to whether ‘the rather effeminate habit of wearing time-pieces on the wrist, by men, should be legislated against?’ a demand, which in this day and age, may appear quite humorous, yet, one which, at that time was doubtless very real, and of considerable consequence. A question biased perhaps, but supported, certainly by the numerous English pocket watch producers, who were now starting to see their market control threatened, but sadly, still failed to adopt change.
Still advances continued, 1911 saw the introduction of a smaller range of wristwatch movements by the great pocket watch maker Vacheron & Constantin and the first man’s wristwatch from Wilsdorf & Davis (see image opposite) who utilized the trademark Rolex in addition to over 20 other brand names over the ensuing years. The production of Frederique Borgels patent two piece waterproof trench case, plus Henry Moser’s market input with his famed fancy swing lugs further marked this key year. 1912 was also a big year as the first alarm wristwatch was launched by Eterna, and Movado, designed and produced a three part angled movement that permitted the use of really long wristwatch cases curved to the contour of the wrist. This ‘polyplan’ witnessed perhaps the first introduction of ergonomics into the new wristwatch industry. In addition a new aviator’s custom chronograph with luminescent dial was made by the Omega watch co made in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin and Movado. 1913 saw firstly the launch of the 8 day wristwatch,’ the Hebdomas’ from Schild & co. plus the first production of wristwatches in Japan by Attori & co. 1914 fuelled by the outbreak of the Great War saw the first certification of a wristwatch by England’s Kew observatory as well as the introduction of trench watch cases and covers for the front line.1915 saw the production, in response to demands from medical personnel and artillery officers, of wristwatches with sweep second hands. Rolex adopted the screw back and screw front watch cases, with what is now their characteristic fluted ‘oyster’ style back, and both Heuer and Breitling introduced chronograph’s with minute counting registers.
1916 saw at last government interest in wristwatches resulting in a number of trial production runs of official ‘pattern’ watches and their testing in the field. In 1917 Omega was chosen to supply the first official ministry ‘pattern’ military wristwatch, this for the newly formed ‘royal air force’ launched in January 1918. That same year the US govt. Ordered 5,000 wristwatches for their armed forces, again this was from the Omega watch company.
Vintage Military Watches

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