Bearded dragons as pets

Bearded dragons, agamid lizards of the genus Pogona, are often kept as pets, most commonly Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. Pogona describes seven species naturally found in arid, semi-arid woodlands and rocky deserts in central Australia.
They are a popular species among children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the relative ease of caring for them. Most bearded dragons kept as pets have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately from head to tail and weighing .
Overview
Bearded dragons originate and currently live in the deserts and woodland of Central Australia. They spend much of their time in trees and bushes as well as on rocks, basking in the hot sun. When the weather is very hot and reaches near 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 °C), dragons bury themselves underground to cool down. Being cold blooded, they frequently need to find a balance in temperatures to keep their temperature constant.
The origin of these dragons have exposed them to blinding heat full of UVA and UVB sunlight as well as cooler places to rest such as beneath rocks, under leaves or underground.
These dragons are both omnivores and diurnal. They forage for food like small lizards, insects, mammals, flowers, fruit and other plants in the daytime. Wild Bearded dragons are accustomed to catching wild, live insects and small mice.
Currently, bearded lizards are bred in captivity worldwide. This is because exporting them from Australia is illegal and, for some species, very limited. Bearded pets that are bred in captivity are just as healthy as wild bearded dragons. If you are not a native of Australia, you will be able to find bearded dragons at your nearest pet shop or online.
Bearded dragon habitat
Bearded dragons need a large enough habitat to allow for a variety of distances from the heat source. A glass aquarium is recommended for security, ease of maintenance, and pet viewing. To avoid the expense of multiple habitats as your pet grows to adulthood, consider using a partition that can be easily adjusted. This way, throughout the life of the pet, you can use a single large aquarium, 55-70 gallons (208-264 litres).
White melamine is a material that keeps the cage very bright which is important for stimulating a dragon's appetite. The light (and the UVB) stays inside the cage rather than escaping through the glass sides of an aquarium. Glass fronts will allow the dragon to check out their world and interact with you.
Housing young bearded dragons
Babies and small juveniles can be temporally housed in a 10-20 gallon aquarium. Young bearded dragons less than in length need to be housed in a 20 gal long aquarium. This will last them for a few months only though as they grow quickly. You can use Profile Extended Storage Bins. The milky white sides of the bins prevent the dragon from becoming terrified in new surroundings and not eating for the first few days, which can become a serious problem.
Housing adult bearded dragons
Adult dragons should be housed in nothing smaller than a 40 gallon breeder tank, but it is recommended that you house a single adult bearded dragon in a 55 to 60 gallon aquarium. Dragons need branches or rocks to climb on and a hiding place. Any cage furniture should be carefully secured so it can not fall and injure the beardie.
Sexual dimorphism
Males have a distinct set of pre-anal pores between the back legs and have hemipenal bulges at the vent. Females usually have no bulge past the vent or only one. Contrary to some beliefs, they do have pores, however they are less noticeable than a male's. The pores are easy to see when looking at the dragon's underside. Males and females are of comparable size, although males usually sport a larger head, a thicker tail base and slimmer bodies than the females. There are cases where a female has a bigger head and tail than her male counterpart. Mature males will turn their throat pouches (beards) black during courtship to signal dominance, although females have also been known to do the same.
Diet
Bearded dragons are native to the central Australian desert, where food is often scarce. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources. Usually when younger they will eat more bugs and similar creatures than as they grow, when fully grown they will prefer to eat leafy green foods, but the occasional meat such as mealworms, crickets, locusts is needed. Sometimes they like to eat things like young mice e.g. pinkies and small lizards. A typical captive bearded dragon's diet consists mostly of leafy greens and vegetables, supplemented regularly with insects. Crickets are the most popular feeder choice, but bearded dragons can also be fed other insects such as superworms, waxworms, silkworms, butterworms, phoenix worms, and even certain varieties of roaches. Young dragons require a significantly greater insect-to-plant matter ratio in their diets than do adults.
Not all insects are equally recommended as feeders, however. The mealworm, a popular feeder insect for other kinds of reptiles, has a hard chitin exoskeleton which makes it difficult for dragons to digest. It is also relatively low in nutrients. Waxworms and superworms can be given as occasional treats, but should be fed sparingly as they are extremely fatty (think of these as being the bearded dragon equivalent of chocolate bars). They are best used as food for undernourished or gravid bearded dragons. The size of the insect being fed must also be taken into account. The general rule of thumb is that the food being provided must not be larger than the space between the animal's mouth endings; feeding anything larger could lead to fatal impaction.
Roaches are becoming a popular feeder for bearded dragons. The most common are Blaptica dubia, Blaberus discoidalis and Blatta lateralis. Blaptica dubia are slow movers, non-climbers, non-flyers and can have a mild odour. Blaberus discoidails is a popular roach for residence in Florida, they are similar to Blaptica dubia except they get a bit bigger and the females have wings. Blatta lateralis are a small roach about the size of a cricket, they can not climb smooth surfaces but they are fast.
Dragons enjoy many types of leafy green vegetables, including: collard greens, spring greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley, and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the animal's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits and vegetables. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.
Other greens or vegetables and fruit that an animal may eat include grapes, strawberries, raspberries, papayas, melons, apples, peaches, pears, orange-fleshed squashes, mangoes, pattypan squash, pumpkins, green beans, peas, maize (corn), carrots or their tops, beetroot, nasturtium, alfalfa (lucerne), celery, rosemary, oregano, basil, hibiscus, pansies, carnations and rose petals.
Poisonous and dangerous foods
Insects captured in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and viruses. Fireflies and all other animals with bioluminescent chemicals are fatal to bearded dragons.
Avocado and rhubarb are generally thought to be fatal if fed to a dragon. Spinach contains high oxalates which bind to calcium and in large amounts can lead to metabolic bone disease. Kale and cabbage also contain oxalates, but the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If a bearded dragon's digestive tract is healthy, and it receives adequate ultraviolet light and temperature, it will gain significant benefits including absorption of calcium from calcium-rich food plants that also contain oxalic acid. Bearded dragons also cannot eat citrus fruits. . Bananas are not recommended for regular feeding to bearded dragons as they are very high in phosphorus which can conflict with the dragon's calcium absorption.
Health
Bearded dragons are generally a hardy lizard that can live ten or more years, but are still susceptible to various illnesses. Common ailments include parasitic diseases, calcium deficiency, respiratory diseases and stomach impactions. Even with proper care your pet may become sick. It is important to find a reptile veterinarian before an illness occurs.
Genetic disease
Genetic diseases are hereditary health problems of bearded dragons. They occur in the offspring of dragons that are closely related. Some genetic diseases involve deformed limbs, tails, and possibly extra appendages.
Calcium and vitamin D3 deficiencies
When a bearded dragon has deficiencies of Vitamin D3 it can cause seizures, stunted growth, deformities, poor bone growth, and brittle bones. Vitamin D3 and calcium problems can be solved by making sure your bearded dragon receives proper lighting and dietary supplements.
Beta-Carotene deficiencies
A deficiency in Beta-Carotene will cause the coloration of your bearded dragon to fade over time. This is especially prevalent in lizards with bright color variations. The easiest way to rectify the problem is to include carrots and yellow vegetables in the bearded dragon’s diet.
Overfeeding babies and juveniles
Overfeeding baby and juvenile bearded dragons causes paralysis in the hindquarters and is usually fatal. It results from the pressure of the food bolus on the spinal nerves. Therefore, do not overfeed the young lizards and do not give them insects that are too large.
Injuries
It is not uncommon for bearded dragons housed together to inflict injury upon less aggressive lizards. They may lose toes or tail tips from the combative behavior. The injury should be treated with a disinfectant ointment. If aggression persists, separate caging is the only way to stop the fighting.
Respiratory infection
Signs of respiratory infection are gaping, noisy breathing, and mucus discharge from the nose and mouth. It is usually caused by low temperatures, high humidity, or both. You should keep your bearded dragon warm and at a relatively low humidity. It is often necessary to seek treatment from a veterinarian.
Gastrointestinal infections and parasites
Signs of gastrointestinal infection are weight loss, lack of appetite, and foul-smelling diarrhea. This type of illness must be treated by a veterinarian.
Insects, green foods and unclean conditions may cause parasites. Signs of parasites include emaciation, runny droppings or feces with a bad odor. Respiratory problems can arise from too much or too little heat, or from high humidities. These are signified by mucus, raspy breathing with the mouth open, increased effort to breathe and blocked nasal passages. However, these can be corrected by improving housing conditions and administering antibiotics.
Fungal infections
Fungal infection are caused by a warm, damp environment. The infection occurs in a cut or scrape on your bearded dragon. It should be treated with an anti-fungal ointment.
Egg binding
Egg binding can be caused by calcium deficiency, being under or overweight, or the bearded dragon can not find a suitable egg nest. Have a deep, soil substrate available for your lizard to dig a nest. If egg binding is caused by a different reason, you will need to take the animal to the veterinarian. If there is a suitable spot to dig a nest and the animal stops eating for days and keeps looking for a place to lay its eggs, there is a problem.
Handling
A person handling a bearded dragon must make sure all of its body is being supported. Beardies like all four limbs to be supported. It must not be held by its chest without extreme care, as it may make it difficult for the animal to breathe. The most comfortable position for the animal is lying down in the person's hand or on the person's chest. Miniature bearded dragons are very friendly as long as they have been handled since they were young. Many owners report an almost dog-like affection . It is advised to not pick up a dragon by their tail. Bearded dragon's tails do not grow back and should be treated with care. In the wild predators often approach from above, so if one does so, the beardy might think that the human is a predator and run away. Choose to gently 'scoop' up your beardie in both hands, supporting arms and legs. If children will be handling, be sure to teach them proper support and approach. If handling the Eastern Bearded Dragon, hold it carefully and make sure it is immobilized since they can be aggressive, which could lead to accidents.

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