The September 2010 Leinster House incident occurred on 29 September 2010 at 7:15 am when 41-year-old Joe McNamara rammed his cement lorry into the guarded gates of the Dáil at Leinster House in protest of the estimated €29.3 billion Anglo Irish Bank bailout. Joe McNamara, a property developer who previously identified himself as the "Anglo Avenger", then proceeded to climb atop the vehicle to continue his protest against Anglo Irish Bank. The lorry, which McNamara had rendered immobile by cutting the brakes and electrical cables, was removed by a specialist tow truck before 10 am on 29 September 2010. No one was injured and the gates suffered only "minor paintwork damage." The licence plate was replaced with the word "Bankrupt".<ref name="avenger1"/> The cement truck had previously been used in an April 2010 demonstration outside the Anglo Irish Bank on Forster Street in Galway, where the truck was abandoned.<ref name="avenger1"/>
Toy Customizing
Toy Customizing is the simple act of changing a toy, in some way, to make it different from its original. The most common form of customizing is done by repainting the toy. Other times this could be done by changing the toy's pieces (such as GI Joe figures, whose pieces are basically interchangeable). The more advanced customs involve actually sculpting new pieces onto the toy or drastically altering the mold by use of a dremel (high-speed rotary tool). If the skill is there, customizing can be brought to another level. Some of the most amazing pieces of art are hidden in the "customizing community". A serious customizer needs to have the intuition of an engineer. The knowledge that is needed to take something apart and be able to put it back together is essential to excel in this art form.
Customizing Methods
Painting
-Customization is most commonly achieved by repainting a toy in new colors. Either the original paint job chipped and faded over time and you want to give the toy new life, or the original paint job was of "mass manufactured quality" and you want to improve it. Painting is fun and easy, takes little skill, and in some cases can be undone in case of a mistake.
-Make sure to choose the right paints. Waterpaints, poster paints, and oil-based paints will not work. They aren't intended for use on non-porous substances such as plastic, and trying to paint toys with them will produce a poor quality custom. Poster paints will flake right off once they've dried, and oil-based paints take forever to dry and will look like sloppy.
-Acrylic paints are the way to go. Several companies make good acrylic paints for toy painting, such as Testor's acrylics/acryl, Vallejo acrylics, and Citadel paints. Some are more expensive than others, so pick whatever works for you. Tamiya acrylics also work, but are much more challenging to a brush-painter: they have to be thinned always, they dry very fast on the brush and take several hours to harden properly.
-Gaming shops sell Citadel paints by Games Workshop. They have a wide variety of colors, they mix easily, and best of all they dry very fast. And once dry, the paint is fairly sturdy won't chip off if you handle the toy carefully. They are slightly more expensive though, at a few dollars a bottle.
-Before painting a toy, it is important to wash it properly with warm water and dish soap, rubbing all the parts properly with a toothbrush or a comparable brush. This is done to clean off the oily substance that is used to release the parts from the mold, and the oil from your hands. Unless it is washed away, it will prevent paint from sticking to the plastic. After washing the toy must be allowed to dry completely.
-A step that people often skip and may end up regretting is priming the figure (debated amongst customizers, depends on paints being used). This will ensure that your paints stick to the plastic properly. There are several companies that sell plastic primers in spray cans, usually available as black, grey and white. Reportedly even acrylic sprays meant for painting the plastic parts of cars work just as fine on most toys.
-However, both washing the parts and priming the figure are not entirely necessary for a beginner. Professional customizers and more hardcore hobbyists do it, but a newcomer can probably skip those steps. If the toys you're painting are older and have been played with, then the mold-release oil probably has been wiped off already (although if the figure is dirty, it will be hard to paint as well.)
-If you plan on playing with your toys once you've repainted them (as opposed to just displaying them), using a protective clear coat is a very good idea to keep the paint from chipping too easily. Many clear coats come in a spray can. To protect parts that will have to endure heavy wear, such as joints, you can also coat the area carefully with Super Glue, which will create a transparent protective surface. However, keep in mind that the more layers of paint or clear coat to add to tight-fitting joints, the harder it will be to move the joints afterward, and sometimes the paint will scrape off no matter what you do.
Spray Paint Basics Tutorial by TTT
Rearranging
-Some of the more popular Toy lines used are: G.I Joe, Star Wars, Kid Robot, NECA, SOTA, DC universe, Masters of the Universe Classics, Marvel Legends, Gundams, Revoltechs, Xevoz. Some of these toys (G.I. Joe, Kid Robot, Revoltechs & Xevoz) are built with easily detachable parts so they are ripe for rearranging right out of the box. In other cases (MOTUC, SOTA, NECA, Marvel Legends) the plastic of the joints usually has to be warmed up using boiling water or a hair dryer, making the plastic rubbery, so that they can be safely popped off. In most cases it is necessary to open up the torso of the figure to remove and re-attach arms, legs, chests or hips. This may also require the use of a dremel tool to ensure that the joints are the right size for the new torso.
Joint Disassembly tutorial by Dr. Nightmare
Kit-bashing
-Customizers dis-assemble toys, and if the joints fit together, use them to create their own toy by cutting and glueing the pieces together before painting them (a more expirienced customizer can make just about any joints fit together). This is known as kitbashing.
Sculpting
-Hardcore customizers use various kinds of modeling clay to sculpt new accessories onto their figures, and even sculpting all new body parts for rearranging. There are many kinds of clay out there (check your local hobby shops), but a lot of "semi-pro" customizers prefer self-curing epoxy clays made by Aves, such as Apoxie and Fixit. Super Sculpey, a stiff modeling clay, is also very useful, although it requires a high temperature to harden.
-Some clays may require baking in an oven (not recommended) to completely dry, and some of them do not adhere well to plastics, so make sure that the clay you're using is designed for this purpose. If you have to bake it in an oven, make sure the temperature is not high enough to melt the toy. Some customizers prefer to boil their toys instead--it still serves the purpose of hardening the clay, but with less risk of melting the figure itself.
Casting
-There is even a process by which customizers can mold and cast their own unique pieces. Obviously, this is something only very experienced customizers would even try. It is a long, arduous, messy process but can have some cool results if you're patient enough.
Guide for casting pieces by Asphalt
Customizing Websites
For more information on the hobby, such as tutorials, other customs, or products specifically made for customizing, please visit one of the following:
Customizing Communities
1. Custom Coalition 2. CustomFigureWars 3. Figure Realm 4. Pro Customizers 5. Toy Cutter
Customizing Accessory Merchants
1. Slayer Design Studio
2. Broken Arrow Toys
3. Hunter Art Works
4. Marauder Gun-Runners
Customizing Tools
1. Aves Studio
2. Dremel Tools
Toy Customizing is the simple act of changing a toy, in some way, to make it different from its original. The most common form of customizing is done by repainting the toy. Other times this could be done by changing the toy's pieces (such as GI Joe figures, whose pieces are basically interchangeable). The more advanced customs involve actually sculpting new pieces onto the toy or drastically altering the mold by use of a dremel (high-speed rotary tool). If the skill is there, customizing can be brought to another level. Some of the most amazing pieces of art are hidden in the "customizing community". A serious customizer needs to have the intuition of an engineer. The knowledge that is needed to take something apart and be able to put it back together is essential to excel in this art form.
Customizing Methods
Painting
-Customization is most commonly achieved by repainting a toy in new colors. Either the original paint job chipped and faded over time and you want to give the toy new life, or the original paint job was of "mass manufactured quality" and you want to improve it. Painting is fun and easy, takes little skill, and in some cases can be undone in case of a mistake.
-Make sure to choose the right paints. Waterpaints, poster paints, and oil-based paints will not work. They aren't intended for use on non-porous substances such as plastic, and trying to paint toys with them will produce a poor quality custom. Poster paints will flake right off once they've dried, and oil-based paints take forever to dry and will look like sloppy.
-Acrylic paints are the way to go. Several companies make good acrylic paints for toy painting, such as Testor's acrylics/acryl, Vallejo acrylics, and Citadel paints. Some are more expensive than others, so pick whatever works for you. Tamiya acrylics also work, but are much more challenging to a brush-painter: they have to be thinned always, they dry very fast on the brush and take several hours to harden properly.
-Gaming shops sell Citadel paints by Games Workshop. They have a wide variety of colors, they mix easily, and best of all they dry very fast. And once dry, the paint is fairly sturdy won't chip off if you handle the toy carefully. They are slightly more expensive though, at a few dollars a bottle.
-Before painting a toy, it is important to wash it properly with warm water and dish soap, rubbing all the parts properly with a toothbrush or a comparable brush. This is done to clean off the oily substance that is used to release the parts from the mold, and the oil from your hands. Unless it is washed away, it will prevent paint from sticking to the plastic. After washing the toy must be allowed to dry completely.
-A step that people often skip and may end up regretting is priming the figure (debated amongst customizers, depends on paints being used). This will ensure that your paints stick to the plastic properly. There are several companies that sell plastic primers in spray cans, usually available as black, grey and white. Reportedly even acrylic sprays meant for painting the plastic parts of cars work just as fine on most toys.
-However, both washing the parts and priming the figure are not entirely necessary for a beginner. Professional customizers and more hardcore hobbyists do it, but a newcomer can probably skip those steps. If the toys you're painting are older and have been played with, then the mold-release oil probably has been wiped off already (although if the figure is dirty, it will be hard to paint as well.)
-If you plan on playing with your toys once you've repainted them (as opposed to just displaying them), using a protective clear coat is a very good idea to keep the paint from chipping too easily. Many clear coats come in a spray can. To protect parts that will have to endure heavy wear, such as joints, you can also coat the area carefully with Super Glue, which will create a transparent protective surface. However, keep in mind that the more layers of paint or clear coat to add to tight-fitting joints, the harder it will be to move the joints afterward, and sometimes the paint will scrape off no matter what you do.
Spray Paint Basics Tutorial by TTT
Rearranging
-Some of the more popular Toy lines used are: G.I Joe, Star Wars, Kid Robot, NECA, SOTA, DC universe, Masters of the Universe Classics, Marvel Legends, Gundams, Revoltechs, Xevoz. Some of these toys (G.I. Joe, Kid Robot, Revoltechs & Xevoz) are built with easily detachable parts so they are ripe for rearranging right out of the box. In other cases (MOTUC, SOTA, NECA, Marvel Legends) the plastic of the joints usually has to be warmed up using boiling water or a hair dryer, making the plastic rubbery, so that they can be safely popped off. In most cases it is necessary to open up the torso of the figure to remove and re-attach arms, legs, chests or hips. This may also require the use of a dremel tool to ensure that the joints are the right size for the new torso.
Joint Disassembly tutorial by Dr. Nightmare
Kit-bashing
-Customizers dis-assemble toys, and if the joints fit together, use them to create their own toy by cutting and glueing the pieces together before painting them (a more expirienced customizer can make just about any joints fit together). This is known as kitbashing.
Sculpting
-Hardcore customizers use various kinds of modeling clay to sculpt new accessories onto their figures, and even sculpting all new body parts for rearranging. There are many kinds of clay out there (check your local hobby shops), but a lot of "semi-pro" customizers prefer self-curing epoxy clays made by Aves, such as Apoxie and Fixit. Super Sculpey, a stiff modeling clay, is also very useful, although it requires a high temperature to harden.
-Some clays may require baking in an oven (not recommended) to completely dry, and some of them do not adhere well to plastics, so make sure that the clay you're using is designed for this purpose. If you have to bake it in an oven, make sure the temperature is not high enough to melt the toy. Some customizers prefer to boil their toys instead--it still serves the purpose of hardening the clay, but with less risk of melting the figure itself.
Casting
-There is even a process by which customizers can mold and cast their own unique pieces. Obviously, this is something only very experienced customizers would even try. It is a long, arduous, messy process but can have some cool results if you're patient enough.
Guide for casting pieces by Asphalt
Customizing Websites
For more information on the hobby, such as tutorials, other customs, or products specifically made for customizing, please visit one of the following:
Customizing Communities
1. Custom Coalition 2. CustomFigureWars 3. Figure Realm 4. Pro Customizers 5. Toy Cutter
Customizing Accessory Merchants
1. Slayer Design Studio
2. Broken Arrow Toys
3. Hunter Art Works
4. Marauder Gun-Runners
Customizing Tools
1. Aves Studio
2. Dremel Tools
Kutch Kadva Patidar are a sub-group of the Kadva Patidar which have migrated to Kutch. They differ from other Kadva Patidar by their traditions and religion.
Origins
After the death of Imamshah Maharaj (d. 1520 C.E./1576 V.S.) by the order of Sanakaka, (Leva Patidar) (Gadipati of Pirana Mandir) Vela Patel & Nakar Patel came to Vagad region in Kutch. There they founded Shikara village, Velasar talav(small lake). Here they established a separate Satpanth Sanatan community. Many Satpanthi moved to Shikra. As population of Shikra village grew, many families started to move to different part of Kutch at their convenience. After they came in Kutch, their title was changed to Kadwa Patidar to Kutchhi Kadva Patidar.
There are two main groups of Patidars in Gujarat that make up the Patidar community: 1. Leuva Patel / Patidar 2. Kadava Patidar/Patel. The Kadava Patidar sub-caste is found mostly in districts of the Saurashtra region like Kutch, Rajkot, Surendranagar, Junagadh, Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, and also Mahesana. The Leuva Patidar sub-caste is primarily concentrated in the Charotar Region (which are also known as Charotar Leuva Patidars), Kheda (Nadiad), Anand, Kanam, Vadodara, Bharuch, Panchmahal, Surat, Valsad, Mahesana and the general Saurashtra Regionin gujrat but in m.p. and in rajasthans udaipur dist(leva). Besides these districts Leuva Patidar are also concentrated in district of Mahesana like 5 Gam Leuva Patidars in the villages of Bhandu, Valam, Balisana, Manund and Sander respectively. Aside from the Patidar caste, many Patels have Jatt, Rajput, and Gurjar origin, most notably in the district of Mehsana. This doesn't mean all Patels there are descendants from these Indo Scythian tribes, but they can be distinguised from their "Saakh" or subcaste name.
The people that came from the village Leava became known as Leava (Leva) Kanbi, and those that came from the village Karada became the Karadva Kanbi. Karadva was later shortened to Kadva Kanbi. Originally, the Kadva Kanbi settled in the Northern part of Gujarat, and the Leava Kanbi settled around the Bay of Khambhat. The Kanbis who settled in Gujarat were industrious and intelligent, and they quickly became successful agriculturalists. Indeed, within a short period of time, Gujarat prospered with the industry of the Patidars.
As time passed, the Kings and the Kingdoms of Gujarat changed, as did the portions of the crops given to the Kings by the Patidars. Agriculture was the main source of income of the Kingdoms, and the Kings were sustained by the income from the farms. So, subsequent tax payments were increased to one-sixth part of all crops cultivated. Later, the Khambhat Region became the Kingdom of the Mauryavansi, and the crop collected from the farmers varied each year. It was high at times, and low at the other times, as per the need of the Kingdom. Hence, this part of the Kingdom became known as Charotar (from "Chad" climb up and "Utar" - climb down.) Today, Charotar is home to many Leuva Kanbis, and in general, all Charotar Patidar Patels have their original roots from this very prosperous agricultural region of Gujarat.
Religion
Kutch Kadva Patidars are Hindu and believe in Shree Ma Umiya, the almighty mother Goddess of the universe which is the kuldevi (family deity) of the Kadva Patidar community. Most of Kutch Kadva Patidars are Hindu Satpanthi.
Saakh or Subcastes
* Velani - they come from Chhampaner in 1524 C.E./1580 V.S. due to a dispute with the local community padiyar. They go to pirana, and the gadipati of pirana sana kaka told them to go sikragam of kutch vela patel come to mankuva in 1702 samvant there they fought with gorasia (land owners). in the fight velo patel and his associated were killed.their memorials are still there today. descendants of vela patel goes by the surname 'velani' derived from their ancestors name (Cela Patel).it is important to note that majority surnames of kadva patidar are based on their ancestors first name .
* Limbani - they accept satpanth and come to kutch(sikara gam) in 1699 C.E./1765 V.S.
* Gogari - they come from adalaj(near ahmedabad) to sikar and then mankava
* Chavan -come from raisang baroda (dolka) to sikara gam and reside with old kadva people
* Halpani - his forefather live in ahmedabad ,thence goto bareja ane accept satpanth sanatan dharm and come to sikra gam, yet know adout thakrini, dosani, bhadani, and somani
* Nakrani -they come from unja to mehmadhabad and 1650 V.S. they accept satpanth and come sikar and then come to virani
* Divani - his forfathers live in adalaj near ahmedabad and after accept satpanth and come to sikara and then dudhae and samvant 1805 they stey in virani
* Chopra - from unja gujrat to sikar and 1768 samvant live inangiya
* Chhabhaiya - in fact they are denizen of ahmedabad , they goto girmatha pirana and accpt satpanth in 1765 and come sikra gam after some year they goto dudhae and 1823 V.S. they stey in kotda his real "saakh " is parekh bat six brothers have one son in six son(pedhi) therefor he term chhabhaiya
* Pokar - orriginally they from mehsana thence line in kanam and 1719 V.S. they accept satpanth sanatan dharm so they come to sikra and then 1828 s. they stey in nakhatarana
* Ramani - from bhalej near aanad in vikram samvant 1592 and kartak sud bij they accept satpanth sanatan and after long time they come to nakhatarana
Origins
After the death of Imamshah Maharaj (d. 1520 C.E./1576 V.S.) by the order of Sanakaka, (Leva Patidar) (Gadipati of Pirana Mandir) Vela Patel & Nakar Patel came to Vagad region in Kutch. There they founded Shikara village, Velasar talav(small lake). Here they established a separate Satpanth Sanatan community. Many Satpanthi moved to Shikra. As population of Shikra village grew, many families started to move to different part of Kutch at their convenience. After they came in Kutch, their title was changed to Kadwa Patidar to Kutchhi Kadva Patidar.
There are two main groups of Patidars in Gujarat that make up the Patidar community: 1. Leuva Patel / Patidar 2. Kadava Patidar/Patel. The Kadava Patidar sub-caste is found mostly in districts of the Saurashtra region like Kutch, Rajkot, Surendranagar, Junagadh, Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, and also Mahesana. The Leuva Patidar sub-caste is primarily concentrated in the Charotar Region (which are also known as Charotar Leuva Patidars), Kheda (Nadiad), Anand, Kanam, Vadodara, Bharuch, Panchmahal, Surat, Valsad, Mahesana and the general Saurashtra Regionin gujrat but in m.p. and in rajasthans udaipur dist(leva). Besides these districts Leuva Patidar are also concentrated in district of Mahesana like 5 Gam Leuva Patidars in the villages of Bhandu, Valam, Balisana, Manund and Sander respectively. Aside from the Patidar caste, many Patels have Jatt, Rajput, and Gurjar origin, most notably in the district of Mehsana. This doesn't mean all Patels there are descendants from these Indo Scythian tribes, but they can be distinguised from their "Saakh" or subcaste name.
The people that came from the village Leava became known as Leava (Leva) Kanbi, and those that came from the village Karada became the Karadva Kanbi. Karadva was later shortened to Kadva Kanbi. Originally, the Kadva Kanbi settled in the Northern part of Gujarat, and the Leava Kanbi settled around the Bay of Khambhat. The Kanbis who settled in Gujarat were industrious and intelligent, and they quickly became successful agriculturalists. Indeed, within a short period of time, Gujarat prospered with the industry of the Patidars.
As time passed, the Kings and the Kingdoms of Gujarat changed, as did the portions of the crops given to the Kings by the Patidars. Agriculture was the main source of income of the Kingdoms, and the Kings were sustained by the income from the farms. So, subsequent tax payments were increased to one-sixth part of all crops cultivated. Later, the Khambhat Region became the Kingdom of the Mauryavansi, and the crop collected from the farmers varied each year. It was high at times, and low at the other times, as per the need of the Kingdom. Hence, this part of the Kingdom became known as Charotar (from "Chad" climb up and "Utar" - climb down.) Today, Charotar is home to many Leuva Kanbis, and in general, all Charotar Patidar Patels have their original roots from this very prosperous agricultural region of Gujarat.
Religion
Kutch Kadva Patidars are Hindu and believe in Shree Ma Umiya, the almighty mother Goddess of the universe which is the kuldevi (family deity) of the Kadva Patidar community. Most of Kutch Kadva Patidars are Hindu Satpanthi.
Saakh or Subcastes
* Velani - they come from Chhampaner in 1524 C.E./1580 V.S. due to a dispute with the local community padiyar. They go to pirana, and the gadipati of pirana sana kaka told them to go sikragam of kutch vela patel come to mankuva in 1702 samvant there they fought with gorasia (land owners). in the fight velo patel and his associated were killed.their memorials are still there today. descendants of vela patel goes by the surname 'velani' derived from their ancestors name (Cela Patel).it is important to note that majority surnames of kadva patidar are based on their ancestors first name .
* Limbani - they accept satpanth and come to kutch(sikara gam) in 1699 C.E./1765 V.S.
* Gogari - they come from adalaj(near ahmedabad) to sikar and then mankava
* Chavan -come from raisang baroda (dolka) to sikara gam and reside with old kadva people
* Halpani - his forefather live in ahmedabad ,thence goto bareja ane accept satpanth sanatan dharm and come to sikra gam, yet know adout thakrini, dosani, bhadani, and somani
* Nakrani -they come from unja to mehmadhabad and 1650 V.S. they accept satpanth and come sikar and then come to virani
* Divani - his forfathers live in adalaj near ahmedabad and after accept satpanth and come to sikara and then dudhae and samvant 1805 they stey in virani
* Chopra - from unja gujrat to sikar and 1768 samvant live inangiya
* Chhabhaiya - in fact they are denizen of ahmedabad , they goto girmatha pirana and accpt satpanth in 1765 and come sikra gam after some year they goto dudhae and 1823 V.S. they stey in kotda his real "saakh " is parekh bat six brothers have one son in six son(pedhi) therefor he term chhabhaiya
* Pokar - orriginally they from mehsana thence line in kanam and 1719 V.S. they accept satpanth sanatan dharm so they come to sikra and then 1828 s. they stey in nakhatarana
* Ramani - from bhalej near aanad in vikram samvant 1592 and kartak sud bij they accept satpanth sanatan and after long time they come to nakhatarana
The ConnectIT software product suite, developed by Hilltops IT, provides integration and add-on solutions for QuoteWerks, Sage Instant Accounts, Sage 50 Accounts, Sage MAS90 ERP, Sage MAS200 ERP, Sage 200 Financials & Commercials, Sage CRM, Microsoft RMS and Microsoft CRM
Products
Products in the ConnectIT software suite are
* ConnectIT-MAS90
* ConnectIT-Sage50
* ConnectIT-Sage200
* ConnectIT-MSCRM
* ConnectIT-Paypal
* ConnectIT-WebCart
* ConnectIT-Workflow
ConnectIT-Workflow Modules
ConnectIT-Workflow has four modules:
* QuoteWerks Open Document Utility
* QuoteWerks Document Split Module
* QuoteWerks Request for Quote Module
* QuoteWerks Validation Module.
Licensing
ConnectIT-Sage and ConnectIT-MAS licenses uses Per Named QuoteWerks license. For ConnectIT-Workflow, the license count must match the number of QuoteWerks licenses.
Resellers
ConnectIT software is distributed through its reseller network and is sold direct. ConnectIT software is used in many countries around the world including the United Kingdom, United States, Canada and Australia. All ConnectIT reseller partners receive commission rates for all licenses, installation, training and support services sold to their prospects. ConnectIT reseller partners are also entitled to Not For Resale licenses for internal usage and demonstration purposes
Product Integration and Add-ons
* QuoteWerks
* Microsoft Dynamics CRM
* Sage Instant Accounts
* Sage MAS90
* Sage MAS200
* Sage 50 Accounts
* Sage 200 Financials and Commercials
* Paypal
Products
Products in the ConnectIT software suite are
* ConnectIT-MAS90
* ConnectIT-Sage50
* ConnectIT-Sage200
* ConnectIT-MSCRM
* ConnectIT-Paypal
* ConnectIT-WebCart
* ConnectIT-Workflow
ConnectIT-Workflow Modules
ConnectIT-Workflow has four modules:
* QuoteWerks Open Document Utility
* QuoteWerks Document Split Module
* QuoteWerks Request for Quote Module
* QuoteWerks Validation Module.
Licensing
ConnectIT-Sage and ConnectIT-MAS licenses uses Per Named QuoteWerks license. For ConnectIT-Workflow, the license count must match the number of QuoteWerks licenses.
Resellers
ConnectIT software is distributed through its reseller network and is sold direct. ConnectIT software is used in many countries around the world including the United Kingdom, United States, Canada and Australia. All ConnectIT reseller partners receive commission rates for all licenses, installation, training and support services sold to their prospects. ConnectIT reseller partners are also entitled to Not For Resale licenses for internal usage and demonstration purposes
Product Integration and Add-ons
* QuoteWerks
* Microsoft Dynamics CRM
* Sage Instant Accounts
* Sage MAS90
* Sage MAS200
* Sage 50 Accounts
* Sage 200 Financials and Commercials
* Paypal