Ijin Material

Ijin Material is an independent research denim product founded by alternative jeans-maker Philip Goss in 2003. The individualism of Ijin Material is focussed on the trademarked “half-man” logo, symbolizing the symmetrical folding techniques inherent to the way Ijin Material products are cut. Ijin items, whilst respecting tradition, purposely distort conventional denim know-how, with the clear intention of presenting the classic five pocket leg in an alternative way, utilising artisanal Italian “slow-denim” production, specializing in hand-craftsmanship and limited edition production runs.
Three principal cutting techniques identify “ijin irregular indigo” from traditional jeans:-
* the Foldedge-cut leg was originated in 2003 as the signature feature to the protagonist Ijin model, a highly deceptive item which displays many common vintage details being either exaggerated or re-interpreted. The Foldedge cutting method is a highly specialised technique which cuts a garment open legged & centred on the stronger warp thread. Cutting denim this way enables the legs to collapse naturally around the knee when worn in a position where the cloth reaches near 45° bias point and engineers inherent softness to an unwashed denim cloth. Worn from dry, Foldedge legs render a personal body-map in a unique manner and advance the natural ageing process of unlaundered indigo denim. This process is defined by Ijin Material as “ seasoning ”.
* the Wrap-leg cut involves cutting the cloth with a completely straight & folded outer leg, composed of one single piece. Wrap-legs are notable by the fact that they have a completely clean finish hem and in-seam, as well as the trademark inexistent out-seam. Instead, a hip dart continues on to form the yoke, as it shapes across the back of the garment. When turned up at the hem, one cannot see any unfinished seams. These Ijin items are composed of only 10 key pattern pieces, including the 3 pockets. In spite of the folded leg, Wrap-leg jeans are cut with the warp thread placed on the out-seam position, exactly as if cut incorporating a traditional selvedge.
* the Artisan cut is focussed on respecting the heritage of tradition of selvedge denim, without the garments appearing repro nor historic. The cloth choice is strictly low-tension old loom, carefully chosen for character as well as attitude. The objective is to wear from dry, for as long as possible to obtain an authentic wearer imprint or body-map ( seasoning). Vintage details are enhanced, such as the extra wide selvedge or the hallmark Ijin diamond-head sewn rivets or the trademark Ijin “Sixth” pocket.
“ijin ” is an antique Japanese word once used to define someone as an “ outsider ”or a “ stranger ”.
It can sometimes be used to describe a person as a “ black sheep ”.
Ijin Material applies the philosophy of On-ko Chi -shin to jeans making techniques. This was a proverb from the teachings of Confucius, which, adapted by the Japanese, means by asking old things, know new things or in contemporary jargon respect the past, create the new.
Philip Goss was creative director for cult Japanese denim label Evisu Genes and founded the International selvedge denim line in 2000. In the following three years Evisu ranked as the number-one Japanese premium denim line globally.

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