Embroidery centers in Surkhandarya

One can still find working seamstresses in villages of Surkhandarya region whose products are designed for demand of the local population. But every year they became less and less.
The Types of National Costumes
The most popular type of broidery is syuzane, a large wall panel. Types of the products, which are decorated with embroidery by craftswomen of Surkhandarya include dzhoynamazes- prayer rugs, zardevors - embroidered wall friezes, bolinpush and joipush - coverlet on a pile of blankets, ruidjo - bedspread, buogdzhoma - special blanket for wrapping coverlets (only visible triangular part was embroidered), lulya-bolish-pillow covers, belbog or belkars - a groom’s waist shawl, beshikpush - coverlet for a child’s cradle - beshik, dastarkhan - tablecloth, fine embroidery in the form of small pouches for mirrors - oyna-khalta, salt - tuz-khalta, tea - choi-khalta, jiyak - narrow patterned ribbon to decorate clothing items. All of these products have common style that is associated with sewing technique, material and ornament.
The Types of National Ornaments
The main ornamental motif of Surkhandarya embroidery is round rosette-“oy-nuskha”, or “tupbargul”. Bush-like medallions typical for embroidery of Samarkand and Kashkadarya regions are used less. in some areas there is embroidery with zoomorphic motifs - stylized images of birds, scorpions, sheep horns, rooster comb, etc. A motif of “a girl with a deer,” which appeared in the late 1950s is widespread for Baysun district. In general, for ornamentation of Surkhandarya embroidery floral pattern in the form of tulips and pomegranates, bodomgul motive - fruit or flower of almond and curly leaves - slime is predominant.
One of the leading embroidery centers of the region is Baysun district. There are three main types of ornamental syuzane: rosettes, composition with bush-like medallions depicting girls with deer. The most common type of syuzane in Baysun was rosette, in which quantity of rosetters was a kind of indicator of development of the center and skill of a chizmakash - a compiler of the design. In embroidery of flat Angora district along with rosette, it was found syuzane, the pattern of which pointed to the link with Samarkand centers.
The Manners of Surkhandarya Districts
Sherobod district is represented by several syuzane from Zarbog village. Use of horn-shaped pattern “kochkorak” in their décor is an example of penetration of ram’s horns pattern from carpet ornamentation of nomadic or semi-nomadic in the past people into traditional embroidery.
In Shurchi district large embroidery were found in Shurchi town (3 syuzane) and Navoi mahalla (4 syuzane) situated at a distance of 15-20 km from it. The style of the embroidery is close to Baysun traditions, but inclusion of Samarkand and Shakhrisabz motives Kordi-osh- (a kitchen knife) to the space between outlets of traditional motif shows the impact of traditions of more developed centers of embroidery.
In Denau district embroidery was found in two places - in Denau town and Sina village. These syuzane represent multi-rosette traditions typical for Samarkand embroidery. Thus, in the ornamentation of syuzane of Denau district it was revealed two trends inherent to Shurchi syuzane: it is a blend of traditions of Baisun style and techniques of Samarkand and Kashkadarya embroidery.
In Uzun district the products were found in two villages - Madaniy Turmush and Bakati, as well as in Mehnat and Istiqlol makhallas, In Mehnat makhalla they found 4 syuzanes and a few small household articles of embroidery - zardevor, dzhoynamaz and waist scarf - kiyikcha. Overall design and rosettes are made in the style of Surkhandarya tradition, but framing of the rosettes with black horn-shaped curls is typical to Samarkand school. It shows presence of symbiosis of traditions of two embroidery school in composition and ornamentation of one product.
Comparative analysis of large embroideries of Surkhandarya region reflects relationship of ornamentation with the nature of the economic structure and ethno-cultural origin of an embroidery author. Representatives of sedentary population, which embroidery ornamentation has carpet art motifs of neighboring former nomadic peoples have the most developed art tradition.

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